Baganara Island Resort is another ideal destination for yachts

Guyana is an ideal destination for small cruisers and yachts since it boasts some of the most wonderful sites in the world.
The area designated for yachting is about 40 miles up the Essequibo River. It is an area with ideal anchorage for yachts that is central to the small vibrant town of Bartica, which stands at the junction of the Essequibo and Mazaruni rivers.
‘Cruising Guide to Guyana’ by Chris Doyle gives full details on sailing to Guyana. According to Doyle in his guide, the Essequibo is an attractive area for yachting. In his book he describes suitable locations along Essequibo River accessible to the yachts.
“Yachting tourism in Guyana is still in its infancy. It will appeal to those adventurous souls who wish to visit somewhere really off the beaten track. Unlike the Caribbean, this will be a real adventure,” Doyle stated in his book.
A copy can be purchased by emailing sailorsguide@hotmail.com or visit Doyle’s website at www.doyleguides.com or www.cruisingguides.com or call the Guyana Tourism Authority on 219 0094-6 for more information.

A yacht anchored at a resort on the Essequibo River

Hurakabra Resort is a fun destination for yachters

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By Michael Younge

The Iwokrama Canopy Walkway, Iwokrama reserve, North Rupununi, Guyana

The Tourism Ministry has disclosed some big plans aimed at further penetrating the tourism markets locally, regionally and internationally. Acting Tourism Minister Irfaan Ali speaking to a packed room of media operatives last Friday announced his intention to ensure that the first quarter of 2013 results in resounding successes for the country’s tourism development agenda.

He said he was satisfied with the gains made in all sectors of the tourism industry which saw Guyana not only improving its performance in critical markets overseas, but cementing its own tourism identity among increasing competition for the small regional tourism pie.

This year, the ministry will execute its tourism work agenda under the theme “Rediscover Home: celebrate your life, celebrate your home”. “It is our belief that 2012 provided an excellent platform through which we can continue the expansion in 2013,” Ali reported.

He said the previous “Rediscover Home” theme has seen the ministry solidifying gains in various problematic areas, which had posed significant challenges to the forward movement of the sector.

Bolster regional relationships
The tourism minister announced that the first quarter initiatives aim to bolster a better working relationship with other Caricom countries that are competing in the tourism sector, as he advocated the need for more joint tourism ventures.

Ali said if more countries within the regional integration movement worked on crafting joint tourism ventures, thousands of visitors would be enticed to visit a group of countries to experience the similar yet different tourism products and experiences. This is particularly important as no one country can dominate the sector for a protracted period.

“There is a greater blend of travellers that travel within a group, and that group would have different interests and the Caribbean loses out a lot because of its focus only on sand, sun, sea”, he reasoned, arguing that Guyana wishes to add adventure and nature tourism to the collective regional package, improving its variety and attractiveness. He said discussions are already ongoing to broker some deal in this respect for 2013.

Ali has also announced a number of international media outlets, including newspapers and magazines as well as production and film companies, are scheduled to visit Guyana during the first quarter to undertake various tourism projects, which will benefit the country’s tourism drive.

The BBC, the Discovery Channel, the History Channel, Adventure Life, and several travel writers as well as producers of documentaries and films will arrive in Guyana to continue series focusing largely on adventurism, nature and a healthy green economy.

Millions of readers and viewers around the world will be introduced to the Guyana experience via these productions.

Gy$ 25 billion investments
Ali also announced that the sector would attract Gy$ 25 billion in investment from 14 local tourism investors.
These investments range from the establishment of resorts and expansion of hotels to the establishment of multi complex entertainment centres.

During the first quarter, efforts will be made to improve air transportation services, which have posed massive challenges in 2012.

The minister reported that discussions are expected to ensure between the government and West Jet, Air Canada and Jet Blue to offer air services to the travelling public to ease the complications caused by the collapse of both REDjet and EZjet. He said that the administration remained proactive and hopes to continue to attract hundreds of tourists both during the peak and off-peak seasons. He disclosed that there was a 7.2 per cent increase in arrivals last year compared with the 2011 figures which recorded some 137, 000 visitors as at November. The figures increased to 161, 000 at November 2012.

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Enjoy a relaxing stay at the Caiman Guest House in Yupukari, Rupununi

The beauty of the Rupununi is vast, unique, legendary and celebrated in arts and literature.  Rupununi in Region Nine, derives its name from the Rupununi River that runs from the south savannahs, north and eastward where it meets the Essequibo River.  The Rupununi River and its tributaries are the mainstay of life for the 14,000 indigenous people, mainly Macushi and Wapishana, who live in the area.
Discover its magic while visiting the golden savannahs that melt into deep, green forests, lined with silver creeks.  Cattle, cashew nuts, peanuts, cassava and casareep are some of the products from the Rupununi waiting to be enjoyed. English, Macushi, Wapishana and Portuguese are the languages spoken by its inhabitants.
What makes the Rupununi special are the sweet scented air, endless horizon and beautiful vistas, the wonderful hospitality and culture of the people and the breathtaking beauty of the landscape. It is also the land of giants: anteaters, otters, river turtles, giant fish (Arapaima) and Black Caiman. There are also numerous pristine locations to explore.
For a journey of a lifetime witnessing rich culture and biodiversity, ensure the Rupununi be on your 2013 adventure list. (Photos by Rupununi Learners Inc)

The serenity of ‘El Dorado’ located in Yupukari, Quatata, Region Nine

Scenic Nappi village in Region Nine

Witness how indigenous knowledge is passed down to the younger generations

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Masquerade mural revealed this month as part of the collaboration to preserve masquerade in Guyana

Masquerade is said to have its genesis in Guyana from African slaves during the European religious Christmas season, when the country was a colony of Britain.
Slaves, who were forbidden to practice their traditions, were slightly less restricted during the season, and were allowed to visit other plantations and revel with other slaves where celebratory drumming and dancing in the streets were also allowed at this time.
The dancing, drumming and elaborate costumes and effigies developed by the colonial masquerade bands reflected religious festival traditions of the Ibo and Yoruba tribes of West Africa during the time of the Harmattan (dry, dusty Nov – March winds blowing from the Sahara toward the west African coast) and harvest celebrations.
According to sources, the Ibo and Yoruba believed that this was the time when their Gods, dressed in costumes and masks, came to visit, and performed dances.
While the slaves danced in entertainment, much of the spiritual traditions were retained in the masks and symbols that represented ancestors and gods, along with the acrobatics and costumes, which represented, or perhaps theatrically portrayed, stories of strength, agility, fertility, battle, evil and terror.
Over the years, European influences were adapted. According to Noah Banks in his article ‘Christmas Past in Guyana’ (Caribbean Property Magazine, Issue 23, Dec 2008):

Masquerade revellers in Region Two

The fertility symbol, for instance, became the ‘belly woman’ during the modern period. From the Christian influence came the devil with his pitchfork which was a source of terror for the onlookers. The policeman was introduced, as was Mother Sally, while the ‘bad cow’ or ‘cow head’ represented the elements of fear and acrobatic agility, and the horse head was a symbol of strength. Others in the old versions were the houseboat, the house, the king, the queen, the executioner and the doctor.  The last named was also a source of much humour because of his role in the ‘doctor play’. In this drama, the king had a rival with whom he fought to the death. This duel would be followed by the spirit of reconciliation and forgiveness when the doctor would come in to restore the dead to life. In a Guyanese version of this doctor play, the element of humour loomed large.
One of the few features that survived to contemporary times is the acrobatic agility displayed in the past by Koo Joo or Actor Boy. The stilt dancer performs these feats, as does the wild cow dancer. To a certain extent the flouncers are expected to have similar skills…
The spectacle that was masquerade at Christmas declined over the years, particularly by the late 20th century; Banks notes, “…most of the great features have disappeared from the contemporary masquerade band in Guyana.”
Recent efforts to revive the dying art form and tradition have seen collaboration between civil society and government to host a symposium that looked at improving knowledge of the history of the tradition, and its development and future in Guyana.

Contemporary masquerade band on the street

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Taushida is a small Amerindian village in the South Pakaraimas region of Guyana. A close-knit community of about 290 persons from the Macushi tribe, whose main activities are farming and fishing, it’s a scenic area with beautiful landscape and rich biodiversity.  (Photos by Rupununi Learners Inc.)

Hilly landscape

Rock formations near the village

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Pomeroon River on the way to the resort

Adel’s Rainforest Resort is located on 60 acres of fertile land in the North-West section of Guyana. It is about 15 minutes from the Atlantic Ocean at the mouth of the Akawini Creek of the Pomeroon River, in the heart of Amerindian lands.
The Akawini region is primarily raw, pristine jungle. Only two per cent is cultivated land. This paradise is abundant with exotic wildlife, rich fishing and a variety of tropical flowering plants, vines and fruit trees. The landscape ranges for miles; transforming from lush rainforest to open savannah to fertile agricultural lands. There are numerous species of tropical birds and local vegetation, which make the area unique.
The resort, comprising three buildings with comfortable facilities, is a perfect location for nature lovers. They can enjoy clean air, peace and tranquillity at this secluded eco-lodge.
Organically grown vegetables, free-range chickens and their eggs boost Adel’s health and eco-conscious lifestyle. Guests have an open invitation to select, pick and eat fruits and vegetables from the gardens at the resort.
Additionally, guests can purchase several locally-made products, including cassava bread, preserved fruits, pepper sauce, cassareep and other food products.
Nature walks led by indigenous guides are also available, and additional places of interest to visit such as an Amerindian settlement can be arranged. For those wanting more adventure, they can enjoy canoeing on the Pomeroon River, and/or arrange for night activities.
The resort also works to help the surrounding communities. It offers a variety of employment opportunities for local villagers. Local people manage the resort and provide most of the services, including cooking and guided tours. The resort is also working on reviving the local basket weaving tradition by sponsoring local artisans, and selling the baskets at the resort.
There are several demonstrations available of local traditions, and there are opportunities to learn about the indigenous way of life. Guests can enjoy community members demonstrating how to make cassava bread. The local community contributes its knowledge of the forest and environment, making the experience at the resort an unforgettable one.

View of the resort from the boat

The rainforest resort

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Demerara Sugar Factory 1916

It was also noted in a 1909 report, mentioned by Roopnarine, (2009) that the savings accumulated by the ex-indentured workers returning to India were also gained from other occupations like shop-keeping, money-lending, cow-keeping, and cane-farming.
In the “British Guiana: Report of the Immigration Agent General for the Year 1906-7” there are records of savings taken back from British Guiana to India in 1907 by individuals such as Kaino Singh, a ‘shovel man’ at Enmore Estate who returned to India with $220; a female weeder called Pargasia from Plantation Ruimveldt who took back $360, and Rampersad, a driver from Pouderoyen who returned to his homeland with $1,100.
It has been suggested by several scholars that there were a number of reasons why some ex-indentured labourers returned to India after their contract expired.
Some, it is suggested, returned simply because they wanted to return to their homeland, while others returned because they were no better off and perhaps were even worse, than when they left India.
Others returned because they found conditions on the plantations too harsh to live under, while others experienced some traumatic event that caused them to prefer to return to India.
Several, as noted by some scholars, had arrived as unwilling labourers duped at an Indian port, and just wanted to return home after their contract had expired.
However, there is also evidence of Indian indentured workers using the indentureship system as a way of accumulating finances before finally returning to their Indian villages and families when they had saved enough money to buy land there.

Immigration Depot, Georgetown (circa 1900)

Research has revealed that some Indians who had returned to the Motherland would also return to the Caribbean, if not to British Guiana, then to other British Caribbean islands, or British territories such as Mauritius and Malta; some, returning to India after serving 10 – 15 years of indentureship in the Caribbean, left India once again to return to the Caribbean colonies, including British Guiana.
There is also record of 44 Indian indentured labourers who, upon completing indentureship contracts in Natal, South Africa, arrived in British Guiana in 1920 to work on the colony’s sugar plantations.
British Guiana politics also played a role in Indian remigration. According to Dabydeen et all (2007) the ethnic tensions of the 1940s leading up to the country’s self rule and independence left many ex-indentured migrants fearful about their future, and they chose to return to their homeland.
In addition, according to Samaroo (1982) some ex-indentured workers who were Indian Hindus, preferred to return to their homeland to die. There has been supporting research that notes the maintenance of religious practices allowed for ex-indentured labourers’ strong ties with India and the spiritual importance of the Ganges River at the later stages of their lives.
Roopnarine (2009) also mentions that under the mistaken belief that India had gained independence, some ex-indentured workers returned to India to live in their free Motherland.
As can be observed today, however, many Indian indentured labourers remained in British Guiana, now Guyana, and made the country their new homeland, forging a legacy that continues to this day.

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Sunset on the Demerara River

Guyana has an elaborate system of rivers and creeks that have their sources in the great mountain ranges to the south and west; they flow northerly and easterly, reaching the Atlantic Ocean after meandering through virgin forests.
Many of the rivers border with neighbouring Venezuela, Brazil, and Suriname. Four major rivers crossing the Guyana coastal plain are the Essequibo, the Demerara, the Berbice, and the Corentyne.
The Essequibo is the largest river in Guyana. It rises in the Kamoa Mountains on the Brazilian border and flows north for more than 600 miles to enter the Atlantic Ocean through a large estuary sprinkled with islands.
The river is fed by many tributaries, including the Rupununi, the Potaro, the Mazaruni, the Siparuni, the Kiyuwini, and the Cuyuni rivers.
For more than 20 miles (32km) from its mouth, the Essequibo river’s channel is divided by the large flat and fertile islands of Leguan, Wakenaam, and Hogg Island. Fort Island is situated off the middle of Hogg Island, on the eastern side.

A serene moment on the Potaro River

The Demerara River flows in eastern Guyana. Its source is found in the Maccari Mountains, and it flows north for 230 miles to enter the Atlantic Ocean at Georgetown. The Demerara is navigable for ocean-going vessels for approximately 60 miles upriver from the mouth to the bauxite town of Linden.  Its major tributaries are the Kamuni, the Kuliserabo, Madewini, Moblissa, and the Kara-Kara rivers.
The Corentyne River is located in east Guyana. Its source is located in the Acari Mountains, and it flows north to the Atlantic, forming the boundary between Guyana and Suriname, its eastern neighbour.
The river is approximately 475 miles long, and is broken up by five waterfalls and many rapids. Seagoing vessels can ascend 45 miles to the first set of rapids at Orealla. The mouth of this river is at least 20 miles wide and is also fed by the Nickerie River which rises in Suriname.

Waterfalls
The Potaro River begins at the Ayangana Mountain Range in the North Rupununi Savannahs, and extends 140 miles to the Essequibo River. Nine waterfalls are located on the Potaro, the most notable being the Kaieteur and the Tumatumari falls. A 1930 suspension bridge, the Garraway Stream Bridge crosses the river, as well as ‘Two Islands’, found on the Potaro River.

The Essequibo River

The Ireng River forms part of Guyana’s western border with Brazil. It is considered to be the most picturesque of Guyana’s many rivers, and the Orinduik Falls, and the Takagka Falls are located on the Ireng.
For most of its length, the Ireng flows through the valleys of the Pakaraima Mountains. It is the only major river in Guyana which flows from North to South as it is one of the northernmost tributaries of the Amazon River system.
There are many more rivers and creeks found in Guyana; these are just a small portion of our beautiful land of many waters.

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The overland trek to Kaieteur Falls is a rough and rugged one, but it offers the excitement of adventure and camping in the forest, and rewards with amazing views of Kaieteur gorge.
The expedition involves trekking through the jungle, swimming across creeks and walking across jungle bridges before the final arduous climbing of the ‘Oh My God’ mountain, named for its steep slopes. At the conclusion of the trek, expect to be well rewarded with views of the Kaieteur Falls seen by only a handful of intrepid visitors, as well as a healthy sense of mental and physical achievement.
The trek starts from the bauxite town of Linden, through the bustling gold-mining town of Mahdia, then to Amatuk. On this beautiful island of white sand with the 170 ft drop Amatuk falls just a few yards away, a camping ground is set up for the night.
In the morning your trek continues as you leave Amatuk by foot, hiking through the jungle, swimming across creeks and walking across jungle bridges (tree trunks); a short boat-ride through the rapids and you arrive at Waratuk where you camp once more for the night.
The next day you set off on foot for Tukiet Falls with the enigmatic Ibini mountain range in the distance as your constant companion. Another short boat ride and you reach the bottom of Kaieteur Falls where you can enjoy a cool dip in the river with the ‘Old Man’s Beard’, a beautiful falls, flowing gently down a steep drop from high up the mountain just across the river.
Then it’s up the ‘Oh My God’ mountain, a climb that will challenge you both physically and mentally. With your backpack strapped securely unto your back and your water bottle within easy reach, you begin your ascent quite smartly. After four and a half exhilarating hours of climbing, enough time to come to terms with yourself and find out who you really are, you eventually reach the top. The feeling of achievement is indescribable as you proudly view the grandeur of the mighty Kaieteur Falls, one of the highest single-drop waterfalls in the world.
On this trek you will also get to tour around the Kaieteur Park, which will prove to be a truly fascinating experience. You will also get the chance to view the Kaieteur Falls from several vantage points that offer excellent photo opportunities. With stealth and a little patience you can get a close-up view of the beautiful, but poisonous ‘golden frog’ and, if you’re lucky, you’ll catch a glimpse of the brilliantly coloured, orange ‘Cock-of-the-rock’. You will also make the acquaintance of several pretty carnivorous plants, some of which feed on insects. There are lots of beautiful, wild flowers too, including the decorative Heliconia.
This journey is offered by many local tour operators who also offer packages including meals, accommodation and additional adventures. (Source: wilderness-explorers.com)

The Kaieteur gorge stretches into the distance from Kaieteur Falls

Steep path of the ‘Oh My God’ Mountain

One of the many streams to cross on the way to Kaieteur

This waterfall is referred to by some as the ‘Big Stone Waterfall’

The west branch of Amatuk Falls

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